Maybe you’re not ready to hop on the 100-thing challenge bandwagon, but perhaps you’ve found yourself growing tired of stuffing your closet with fast-fashion the way some people stuff their faces with fast food; you’d like a less wasteful option, one that allows you to feel good about yourself w/o having to fork over large sums of money. Well, then, Gentlefriends, have your solution: buy vintage. Notice I don’t say second-hand, although that is certainly a viable and desirable option. Vintage clothes are typically considered those that are at least 20 yrs old (~1980′s), but no more than 80. Garments manufactured before 1920 would be “antiques.”
Some of us are lucky enough to live in places where they have access to a plethora of well-stocked stores. For the rest of us, the only choice is to shop online, or else resign ourselves to a sartorial fate of poly-blend runway knock-offs from China.
Shopping online, ce n’est pas toujours évident. Having had several weeks to experiment, I have compiled some useful tips for people looking to try and ensure that they get a truly satisfactory item, especially since it seems that a lot of vendors don’t accept returns on vintage items.
1. Know what you want. There’s an incredible amount of choice, and since sellers may not have taken the trouble to categorize their finds, you’ll quickly get bogged down browsing through thousands of listings on hundreds of pages. It’s best to have at least a vague idea of what you’re looking for, which will narrow your options and get you closer to what you want more quickly.
2. Start small. Begin by buying accessories or outerwear, where prices are lower and fit is not as crucial. Something like 1950′s kid leather gloves…
Or a Victorian fur scarf…
3. Put in the time. Just b/c you know what you want doesn’t mean that you should buy the first thing that pops up on your screen. Even if it feels like love, take time to look at other options and compare prices; you are free to explore, and there aren’t even any obnoxious salespeople pressuring you into making a decision. A little bit of hesitation might mean you end up w/ something even closer to your vision of perfection…or it might just reaffirm what you knew all along. Either way, it can’t hurt.
4. Know your measurements. Take them using a measuring tape, not a ruler. You don’t necessarily need anyone to help you (I measured solo), but it helps. A good guide can be found here. While you may not be required to know all your measurements at a given time, it’s useful to write everything down so that you have it on hand should the need arise. This is particularly important because vintage clothes very often run small. For instance, if you wear a present-day U.S. size 6, a vintage 10 or even 12. Knowing your measurements allows you to compare them to the specs given by the seller, so that you can make a judgement based on something besides the rather arbitrary size number.
This blouse is a size 12...w/e that means
5. Be prepared to repair. Vintage pieces often come at great prices…but it bears remembering that part of the reason for this is the fact that the garment has already undergone decades of wear and tear. You’ll need to bust out your sewing kit to mend small rips and replace missing buttons.
This mink cape was only $40.00...but has a split seam in need of repair
B/c of the cyclical nature of fashion, things that were popular years ago are almost guaranteed to make a comeback. Buying vintage can be an economic way of exploring new trends, w/ the added bonus of wearing a piece history. Still, many pieces can end up looking dated, so you might also find yourself wanting to revamp or update a vintage item. If you’re an accomplished seamstress and can do it yourself, that’s great…if not, you’ll need to find a good tailor and get it altered. The upside is that the result is a quality piece w/ a contemporary look that is actually much cheaper than if it had been bought new. The downside, though, is that alterations can be a bit pricey, and you might end up paying almost as much for the changes as you did for the item. And you’ll have to wait longer to wear it, since an alteration usually takes at least 2 days. That said, I think it’s totally worth it; you’ll look and feel much better in something that fits you perfectly. Also: see if you can postpone payment until after the garment is ready. That a) gives the tailor some encouragement to finish faster and b) means that you have a bit more bargaining power in case the unthinkable happens, and you don’t like the end result.
I had this wool cape shortened to give it a modern twist.
Lastly…enjoy it! Remember, what you’re wearing has probably had as much life experience as you have (possibly more). It is perhaps that last one of its kind. Take pleasure in giving new life to something unique. You’ll see, it will feel a lot better than any of those flimsy clothes from Forever 21.
The only shopping site I can personally vouch for is Etsy. The selection is good, and the virtual community is v. friendly and helpful. I’ve browsed ebay, but frankly I find it too big and unwieldy. DailyCandy (who has never yet let me down) has published a guide of vintage sites you might want to investigate as well.
Love the gloves!!! And the mink, oh god, the mink! And that wool coat is adorable!
I wear those gloves alllll the time. Even though they’re thin–thus allowing for mobility–they’re pretty warm, since leather doesn’t breathe much. The best part about the mink capelet is that it has POCKETS. Which I did not even know when I bought it! You know how obsessed I am w/ pockets, so this was a huge bonus.
)))